The Rann of Kutch is an astonishing place to visit in Gujarat known as world’s largest salt desert, scattered in about 7500 square kilometres. Interesting fact is that, the salt desert remains underwater during the monsoon season and after monsoon we can see boundless stretch of packed white salt. The Great Rann of Kutch lies towards the north of the Tropic of Cancer, there is a sign board where we actually cross over the point of tropic of cancer. The northern most boundary forms the border between India and Pakistan.
Best Time to Visit Kutch
The water of Rann begins to dry in October every year, transforming the area into great salt desert steadily. November to March is the best time to visit Kutch as the weather is more bearable at this time. The Great Rann Utsav also happens during these months. The Rann Utsav is organised every year from October end to mid of March. Villagers utilise this time to sell most of their products as in rest of the months there will be hardly any source of income for them. Locals come to the Utsav with their special food item, performances, Gujarati dresses, accessories, etc. If you want to have peaceful experience, visit the place towards the end of the tourist season in March. After March the place starts getting vacant due to very hot weather and chances of salt converting into mud are very high.
Most important, travel to this place on a Full Moon it’s more magical to see the moon bigger than we actually see from metropolitan cities and whole of Rann gets brightened with Moon’s light and experience moonlight safari with a long moon light walk way back to the parking.
How to Reach Kutch
Bhuj is approximately 75 km from Kutch and it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the Rann of Kutch. Plan your travel to reach Bhuj early morning so that you can experience both sun and moon view.
Reaching Bhuj via Flight:
The fastest way to reach Bhuj is by taking a direct flight to Bhuj but the frequency of these flights is less as compared to other places and fares are very high.
Reaching Bhuj via Bus:
You can also reach Bhuj easily via buses only if you are travelling within Gujarat otherwise it would be very hectic due to hot weather there. Gujarat state buses and some private buses that generally starts the journey early morning at near about 4 AM. Fare to travel via state bus would be around 500 INR depending on seater, semi-sleeper or sleeper and the distance and will take around 6 hours to reach Bhuj from Ahmedabad and 7 hours from Vadodara. Fare of private buses will come around 800 INR. There are very less direct bus connectivity if travellers are from any other state. In that case one will have to do break journey by arriving to Ahmedabad, Surat, Vadodara, etc. first and then head towards Bhuj.
Reaching Bhuj via Train:
I believe the best means to visit Rann of Kutch is via train. If you are travelling from far off place then it might take time but it would be more comfortable than bus and would be cheaper than direct flight to Bhuj.
Bhuj to Kutch:
After reaching Bhuj comes the major and most difficult part to reach Kutch reason being lesser means of transport and facilities but we can use below means:
Great Rann of Kutch Tour Packages
There are many tourist packages that would cost 1500 INR per person and would also include trip to Rann of Kutch and Kalo Dungar. Solo travellers can go with this option as the package combines 2-4 travellers together and make it a single package, this would also give solo travellers experience to meet new people and make new friends. Kutch Adventures India is one of the tour organiser based in Bhuj.
Hire a Cab
One of the means would be to hire a cab and that would be a hit to your pocket if you are 2-3 people as it will cost you around 2000-3000 INR depending on the tourist season. This option would suit best to the group of 5-6 people as it can be divided equally.
Rent a Bike|Scooty
This option best suits the people who don’t want share their trip and want to enjoy their lone time. It’s perfect for solo and budget travellers, people can easily get a scooty or bike for a day in just 600 and 800 INR respectively and can reach kutch in almost 2 hours. The road to Rann of Kutch is really smooth and doesn’t have many speed breakers or barriers so you will enjoy the drive. Please be little slow as generally wild dogs, cats and sometime foxes run on road from the sideways.
Please Note: You need to have your driving license, good shades, sunscreen and water with you. Keep another set of cloths handy as it becomes really cold in the night.
Take your own vehicle
Lastly, if you are travelling from nearby cities like Ahmadabad, Surat, Vadodara, etc its best you take your own vehicle and enjoy the trip. It will be cheaper than any of the above means of transport.
How to Get the Permit
To visit the Rann of Kutch and wide spread of salt desert we need a permit due to its proximity to the Pakistan border. Earlier the process to get this permit was difficult and time taking but now we can get in 5-10 minutes. There are 3 ways permit can be attained:
First, if your accommodation is in Tent City or the White Rann Resort it will be included in the itinerary. Else, check with your hotel manager they might get it arranged for you.
Second, there is a counter to get the permit on the way to the Rann of Kutch at the Bhirandiyara village checkpoint. You can enjoy mawa, a famous sweet dish and best one is available only in this village while you are waiting for your turn. You can easily identify the place if you find high security, police, barricading and intersecting roads (the road from Bhuj till the Rann of Kutch is straight except this intersection) to Dhordo village and Kalo Dungar with checkpoint on your right hand.
Third, the easiest way is via online application and the website is Rann Permit website. The website is only available for Indian tourists. After payment is done the permit will be sent to the given email id.
For all three ways keep one of the identity proof handy with you like Voter ID, Aadhar, DL, Passport, etc. Permit fee is 100 INR per person, per day with vehicle charge of 25 and 50 INR for 2-wheeler and 4-wheeler respectively. You need to provide vehicle number as well. Also, if you plan to take permit from checkpoint then the counter opens at 11 AM.
Accommodation in Rann of Kutch
If your trip is of 2-3 days then it would be better to stay closest to the salt desert else somewhere in closest village like Dhordo or Hodka. Let’s get in more details on stay in this trip.
Luxurious Option:
Expensive-TENT CITY or White Rann Resort:
This option best suits if you want to enjoy complete Rann Utsav and its luxury. A bit expensive but everything will be included in this like to and fro from Bhuj to Kutch and vice versa, celebration inside tent city/resort, cultural performance, handmade souvenirs and gifts, stay, meals, permit, village tour, sightseeing in Bhuj, kalo dungar, etc. Entry of outsider is not permitted in tent city if you wish to see the celebration, exhibition, shops or food stall inside the tent city you will have to go by this option.
The package would cost between 8000 – 40,000 INR for a tent or bhunga (two people) depending on the duration of stay and full moon, costlier on full moons.
Budget-Friendly Option
Looking for budget-friendly options near the Great Rann of Kutch? You can go for homestays and camping areas in the vicinity of 10-15 km. Resorts like Gateway to Rann Resort(Dhordo), Rann Homestay Resort(Dhordo), Shaam-e-Sarhad(Hodka) or Banni Village Stay(Hodka) are good option and budget-friendly. They will cost you 4000 – 6000 INR for two people including air conditioner and all the meals per night. The accommodation here would be in Kutchi bhungas crafted and decorated with traditional handicrafts, owned and managed by local residents.
The Toran Rann Resort owned by Gujarat government opposite army checkpoint near the entrance to the salt desert is also a good option being closest to the salt desert. Accommodations here would cost somewhere around 4500-5500 INR per night excluding tax, including breakfast and dinner only. Being closest to the salt desert and parking lot there will be chaos all the time.
Going with this option will not give benefits of sightseeing, permit, etc you will have to arrange things on your own.
Accomodation in Bhuj
This option will be more budget friendly as hotels in Bhuj are cheaper with all the facilities available. With this option you can go on a day trip to Kutch and enjoy the drive of almost 1 and half hour. There are many hotels and guest houses available costing from 400-2000 INR like Click Hotel or the Royal Guest House.
Things to Do In and Around Kutch
Once you reach Kutch, you would really wonder what is there to see except for the wide expanse of white salt desert. Being a mountain lover, this thing came in my mind what else I will do here other than seeing moon and salt desert. I have pen down few top things that you will enjoy for the time you are in Kutch.
Late Night Long Moon Walk around the Great Rann of Kutch
Well, when you start your walk you will see just camel dung, smells, pollution and crowd but don’t lose hope. When you will be half way on the great photographed passage you will start amusing the place and it’s magic. Best thing is even though the place is crowded you will find a place for yourself with some peace and solitude from the crowd. You just need to keep walking till the time you see only white horizon in front of you. You will feel like you are walking on moon or Mars with so many stars that feels like just above your head. There is absolutely nothing to see for miles except for the vast white salt.
Photography in the White Desert
The place is gold mine for taking class pictures and showing some photography skills. Even if you are not a good photographer, the place will help you become one without any extra efforts. It’s just the white land and clear blue sky with so many stars visible and an amazing click. Trust me you won’t stop clicking pictures at this place.
Enjoy the Rann Utsav
One of the most famous festive of India the Rann Utsav in the Great Rann of Kutch. Indulge yourself in shopping of beautiful Gujarati attires and accessories and can gorge on the delicious Gujarati food stall as well. Enjoy and dance with the local performer. You can find a different area opposite of the gateway of salt desert specially allocated for the Rann Utsav celebration outside the Tent City. One can have peaceful experience of this inside Tent City (if accommodated) as well to avoid the crowd and chaos outside.
Witness a Beautiful Sunrise and Sunset
You can witness the sunrise hear as if it’s just in front of you. You can catch the glimpse of whole orange and pumpkin size sun just when it rose if you are near the salt desert.
Likewise is with the sunsets, you can even do paragliding and experience the heavenly view of the sunset. You will get a lifetime experience when sky turns to the shade of orange and reflects white desert with bluish tinge.
Visit Kalo Dungar
A visit to Kalo Dungar (The Black Hills) is a must in the whole trip. One can see the entire white desert and Dholavira Lake along with India-Pakistan border from the highest point with mesmerizing view and again getting to see the pumpkin size sun going down towards the end of horizon is an epic experience.
Handicrafts Villages
Khavda Village: Khavda Village in Bhuj is known for the famous flamingo colony at the Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary. The locals here are mostly known for their work on pots using soft clay found in the Rann with unique and traditional designs painted using red, black and white colors.
Hodka Village: Hodka Village is famous for colourful Banni embroidery held with only group of artisan families. This family generally use bright hues of red, green, yellow and mix of other shades along with chain-stitched mirror and uniquely designed. You can shop for patchwork appliques, home furnishings, apparel, jewellery and trinkets.
Jura Village: Jura Village is famous for copper-bell designed by locals using scrap metal. Artisans mould and craft the metals into bells with different shapes and sizes that too handmade. Huser Sidhik and his family are the ones skilled in this art, people say the art of making copper-bell was brought to Gujarat by the Lohar community from Sindh, Pakistan. Huser bhai would be more interested to share more details on how the art came to Gujarat.
Nirona Village: Nirona village is famous for Rogan Art. The traditional bridal wear used to be designed with this art. This art involves a metal needle dipped in vibrant oil-based paints to create designs on fabric. Gafur Bhai would love to give proper history and details of this art and show some artwork live too.
Ajrakhpur Village: Ajrakhpur Village is famous for traditional Ajrakh block printing using natural dyes made from turmeric, pomegranate, ink and mud. The whole village uses this art for their income.
These villages also sell wooden items with absolutely fine and different designs using different natural colors made along with lac/kerriidad. Trust me no matter till what extent you hide your inner shopaholic these villages will make you helpless but shop and you will be in dilemma of what to buy. These villages are good place to stop and learn about ancient, traditional and local art.
Things to Do In and Around Bhuj
Since you will be in Bhuj, I would suggest to go around some famous places in Bhuj as well. Let me give some of the nice places that can be visited in Bhuj.
Vijay Vilas Palace: the mansion was built in 1929 by Rao Vijayrajji with red sandstone designed with Rajput tradition and crafts with a main central dome, Bengal domes in sideways, bastions on the corners coloured windows. The Palace also has a wide spread lawn and forest in its boundary and you can witness peacocks roaming here and there. The palace is well-maintained and we can often see the inside of the palace in movies like Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, Lagaan and few songs are also shot here.
Rakshak Van: The Rakshak Van was built in 1971 to honour brave women of Kutch (madhapar village) who rebuilt the airstrip of Bhuj airport in an overnight’s time in less than 72 hour during Indo-Pak war when Pakistan dropped 14 napalm bombs on Bhuj region and air strip in Bhuj was completely destroyed. Even in horrible condition of war they worked continuously and used to take shelter in bunkers during siren calls. It’s around 8km from Bhuj railway station. The visiting hours of the van is 10 AM- 5 PM.
Bhujiya Fort: Bhujia Fort was built between 1715-1718 CE by Rao Godaji. The fort is vigilant of 6 major battles fought during 1700-1800 AD between Rajput rulers of Kutch, the Muslim raiders from Sindh and Mughal rulers of Gujarat. The British colonel William Coir took over the fort in 1819. Indian Army took over the fort after India’s independence in 1947 and left it in 2001. The fort is also famous for Nag Panchami every year because of the Naga Baba’s prominent role in first battle. With around 200 steps one can see even salt desert from here. Fort is located at a distance of 3 km from Bhuj Railway Station and visit time is 6 AM- 6 PM.
Mandvi Beach: Mandvi beach in Bhuj must be visited to see the northwestern coast of India and its beautiful, idyllic serenity. Sunsets here is soothing and you can even enjoy the camel rides here.
Pirotan Island: From the total 42 islands in the Arabian Sea on the eastern coast of Jamnagar, only two islands are open for tourists. Pirotan island is one of them and you can get chance to see Puffer Fish, Octopus, Star fish, Sea Anemones, Jelly Fish, Dolphin, Sea Turtles and sometimes even Dugongs very frequently and even crabs.
Aina Mahal: The Aaina Mahal or Hall of Mirrors was built during the vibrant rule of Lakhpatji in 18th century. The palace houses a handicraft museum where the crafts from various villages of Kutch are showcased for the tourists.
Prag Mahal: Prag Mahal was built in 19th century and is located next to the popular Aina Mahal in Bhuj of Gujarat. The interior of the Mahal looks like a college or ancient library that we see in the movies.
Clock Tower: Clock Tower is part of Prag Mahal built with the height of 45 feet in Italian Gothic structure. The Clock Tower have been featured in numerous well-known Bollywood and Gujarati movies.
Swaminarayan Temple: Built in the year 1822, the temple have magnificent interior and crafting on pillars and walls. The temple is the first of many Sampradey Swaminarayan temples.
My Experience to the Rann of Kutch and Bhuj
Now a little bit of my experience to the Rann of Kutch and Bhuj. I visited Rann of Kutch in December 2018 and I believe December is the best month to bear the heat of Gujarat. I with 2 of my other friends decided to take this journey by train, a bit hectic but if you want it economically low then its best and anyways you would enjoy the deserts that are on the way to your destination. It was a 3 day trip excluding the travel time. We reached Bhuj from Delhi on 22nd December in the morning that is almost 1 hour drive to Kutch. We had already booked a cab for our 3 day trip and it included all the tourist places, sight-seeing, any number of time we visited white desert. We literally went to white desert daily. The cab took 8000 for 3 days and to and fro from Bhuj to Kutch and Kutch to Bhuj on 4th day.
We stayed in 2 different resorts to experience the hospitality, 1st one was Banni Village Stay and 2nd Rann Homestay Resort maintained by village locals. I must say both were equally commendable be it food, water, hospitality, knowledge sharing, and location. As my trip was in late December it was very cold in night and early morning, so the owner provided born fire and hot water (they had hot water supply without geyserJ). The good thing was they used to serve freshly cooked food just before 10-15 minutes. They were friendly enough that they packed us a box of famous Gujarati red chutney that we liked most. The 3 day accommodation costed us 12000 INR.
As 22nd December 2018 was a full moon we went to Kalo Dungar in the evening and then to white desert directly from Kalo Dungar and stayed there till almost midnight, we were not in the mood to leave the place when we saw this big moon with full of its light scattered over the vast white desert and cluster of stars all over sky with number of shooting stars(I literally saw 6-7 shooting star in a minute). The next day we visited the villages and did some shopping from there and again went to white desert in the night. Third day we visited Pirotan island, few of the Bhuj tourist places and Pirotan island and came back to our resort in the night and went for our last visit to the Great White Desert.
Finally came the last day of our trip that started with our last breakfast in the resort and then straight to Bhuj and we boarded our train in the afternoon so we visited few more places in Bhuj and headed towards Railway Station.
Lastly, I must say that if you are a traveler and haven’t been to the Great Rann of Kutch till now then add it to your list and enjoy one of the most magical place ever.
2
